Wave Period / Swell Period
Wave period is measured in seconds and is the gap between one wave and the next. Simply said the wave period is the amount in seconds that pass between each wave. The higher the wave period, the more energy in the swell and so the larger the wave and more often than not this results in better quality waves for surfing.
The arrival of sets at a specific location has a significant impact on the quality of the waves. The swell period or wave interval is the length of time it takes for two subsequent wave crests to pass through a specific location. Knowing the swell period is essential for surfing since it determines how well the upcoming surf session will go.
Wave Period and Wave conditions
High-quality waves are produced in the open ocean, hundreds of miles offshore, by groundswells. Short time intervals, between 1 and 10 seconds, may show that one location is pounding surf brought on by nearby winds or local wave currents, meaning low-quality surf conditions. The likelihood of seeing glassy, perfect-peeling waves greatly increases when surf report data indicates 13+ second intervals between waves in combination with light offshore wind direction.
1-5 seconds: Local wind swells with bumpy and disordered waves. Poor surfing conditions;
6-8 seconds: Regional and local wind swells with average surfing conditions. Offshore winds might get it better;
8-10 seconds: Medium-distance swells improve the local surfing conditions. Go for it;
10-12 seconds: The power of ground swells is taking effect; Definitely worth it;
13+ seconds: A long period swell brings high-quality waves. Epic surf session ahead;